The combination makes for stresses on bits- even though the carbide itself is hard, it can get hot and melt its braze joint, or just break, when it is trying to drill partially thru something hard, while part of the bit is still in the soft concrete.
#TAPCON MASONRY DRILL BIT FULL#
Concrete is full of hard stuff, mixed randomly with soft stuff- rocks and rebar. And these were high quality bits- unlike those freebie bits that come with the tapcons, which are usually not very long lasting. Get (buy, borrow, rent) at least a hammer drill and make short work of the job.I cant count how many carbide drill bits I have toasted with the rotohammer- but its a lot.
#TAPCON MASONRY DRILL BIT PLUS#
The SDS (regular or Plus or Max) machines and bits are 'better' at the hammering action because the bit is allowed to 'slide' fore and aft a little from the hammering mechanism and not have the entire tool and/or chuck slamming back and forth (as much).īut you don't 'need' an SDS-type system (or you shouldn't ) to drill some 1/4" holes in concrete. The hammering action breaks up the masonry and the drill action removes the masonry dust and crumbs. BTDT, finally went out and bought the hammer drill (years ago).Ī 1/2" hammer drill works much better. Have (in an earlier non-enlightened period of my life ) attempted to drill various small sized holes into various masonry substances (concrete, brick, concrete block aka CMU, etc).Įven using a slow-speed 1/2 inch drill (no hammer mode, not a hammer-drill, but enough torque to throw you through the air and/or break your wrist/arm if the bit jammed up) and various quality carbide tipped masonry bits, success was varied.įorget trying to use a 'regular' 3/8 inch or 1/4 inch drill, those just turn waaaay too fast for successful drilling into masonry. Since you are just anchoring a threshold with probably 4 holes, the $200-250 with a bit makes for some expensive holes but you will still have the rotary hammer to use after and who doesn't need more toys?Īs a last resort, however you get the holes drilled, if the plastic anchor doesn't work, just pound some wood into the hole and use a wood screw. Once you use a rotary hammer for drilling concrete you will never want to go back to a hammer drill and you will wonder why you didn't get one sooner. The rotary hammer can usually be set to just "hammer" and you can buy flat chisel bits with the SDS shank and use it to chip out tile. I use a rotary hammer with a 3/8" bit almost daily for work ( anchoring safes) and I replace the bit every 9-12 months. Bosch makes SDS bits as small as 3/16", maybe 1/8" up to an inch or so. They typically use an SDS drive which requires a bit with an SDS shank. These spin a lot slower but have a lot more impact. The best option for drilling holes in concrete is to use a rotary hammer. Hammer drill will have a regular chuck with chuck key and can be used for wood, steel etc when switched out of hammer mode.
If you were using a straight drill, you were probably going too fast.
They are usually blue in color and you need to use the Tapcon drill bit for the size you are using. Plastic anchors in an oversize hole is probably not the best way to go.
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